Monday, 30 September 2013

Plants for Windy Locations


There are plants for every location, soil type and climate so it’s only a matter of choosing the right plant for the right location. Wind often can be one of those factors that cause problems in the garden. Sometimes we can reduce the effect of wind by wind-breaks, mulch (to reduce the risk of drying out), staking (to stop plant movement damaging or loosening plants roots) size (smaller plants in same location might not catch same amount of wind). If these measures aren’t enough then plant selection is the next step to combat the problem of wind.


 
 
 
Agapanthus – Herbaceous perennial that flowers in summer, usually white or blue flowers, can be up to 6’ tall.    Propagate by dividing bulbs or by seed.
 
 
 
 
 
Agave – Plants are succulents with a large rosette of fleshy sharply pointed leaves. Requires little water or attention when established. WARNING: juice from plants can cause acute dermatitis with reddening and blisters lasting up to two weeks.

 

 
 
 
Anthemis – Commonly known as Chamomile produces a white daisy like flower. Plant is used for making a tea, and a hair rinse for fair hair. Leaves give off a scent when crushed.







Armeria –  An small ground cover plant producing an attractive grassy foliage and a mass of pink flowers. Needs well drained soil.

 
 
 
Berberis – Mainly evergreen thorny shrub but some species are deciduous, producing a small waxy shiny green or purple leaf. Flowers are usually yellow or orange and some produce fruit that are red or dark blue.



 
 
Bottonia – Wind actually prevents it being attacked by powdery mildew .Can grow to about 3’ tall; divide if required in early spring. Flowers which are good for cutting come in white, pink and purple.



 
 
 
Choisya – Ornamental evergreen shrub grown for it fragrant flowers and aromatic foliage. Plants can be prone to Pythuim root rot when grown on pots.
 
 

 
 
 
Ceanothus – Evergreen flowering shrub or tree producing white, pink. Blue or purple flowers which turn into a three lobed seed capsule.

 
 
 
Clematis – Clematis Montana are very wind tolerant. Plant with “heads in the sun and feet in the shade”! Roots need to well planted and kept cool. Water well.

 
 
 
 
Cordyline – Available in green, Red, Purple and variegated yellow/green varieties. Will tolerate frost to about -5 but will sprout new growth from the base if they do “die”.

 
 
 
 
 
Cupressus – Evergreen conifer which Goldcreast (Gold!) or Arizonica (blue/green) are the more wind tolerant.

 

 
 
 
 
Coreopsis – Yellow flowering daisy like perennial that grow between 18 -48” high. Attacked by slugs.


 
 
 
 
 
Dianthus – A cottage garden favourite with its green/grey grass like foliage and fragrant flowers. Perennial plant that height ranges from 4-30”.

 
 
 
 
Escallonia – Small waxy shiny leaved perennial that can be used as either a specimen plant or hedging. Produced a white or pink flower.

 
 
 
 
Eucalyptus – Usually silver /grey leaved tree or shrub. Oil is made from its leaves and has a variety of uses.

 
 
 
 
Echinacea – Herbaceous perennial that that produces daisy like flower with petals coming from a cone type centre in summer can be up to 4’ tall.
   

 
 
Fatsia Japonica – Evergreen shrub with large leathery shiny leaves. Commonly known as the Caster oil plant. Originated in Japan & Taiwan.

 
 
 
Gaillardia – Blanket flower, Perennial striking flowers that can be any shade of yellow, red, brown or bi-coloured. Need free draining soil to survive.

 
 
 
 
Honeysuckle – Perennial vine type plant that tolerates most types of soil and requires little maintenance once established. Prefers sun.

 
 
 
 
Hebe “Wiri Series” – Small leaved perennial shrub that like free draining soil. Produce white pink or purple flowers.

 
 
 
Lavender – Grown for their fragrant whorl type flowers and for production of oils, they require a sandy/shale type free draining soil for best results.

 
 
 
Nepeta – Catmint, Herbaceous perennial that’s foliage and tubular flowers are both fragrant. Flowers can be pink, purple or lavender in colour with blue/grey leaves.
 
 

 
 
 
Nasturtium – Grown from seed, it’s a half hardy annual. Comes in reds, yellow and oranges, its flowers and leaves can be used in salads.
 
 
 
 
Hope these selections can help if you have a windy location that needs filling.
As always - Happy Gardening!

Saturday, 14 September 2013

Winter Window-boxes & Hanging-baskets



Now is the time to think about planting up your Window-boxes, Containers and Hanging-baskets for a little winter colour during the bleak months ahead – growth wise. The sooner they are planted, while there’s a bit of warmth to encourage growth, the better. The larger the container you intend planting up,  the more adventurous you can be size wise with your plant choice ,  the larger more visually dramatic display you’ll end up with.

What you’ll need –

·       Container of choice to plant – 14” Hanging-basket or larger, Window-box, planter or ceramic /plastic pot.

·       Multi-purpose compost mixed with slow release feed ( try to get at least 5-7 month or 12-14 month if possible)

·       Range of perennial plants/shrubs as centre and side plants

·       Bedding / filler plants to add colour & interest
 


Suitable Centre Plants

·       Small or slow growing conifers – Cupressus Goldcrest (scented lime green), Thuja Smaragd (dark green) to name but a few plants as specimen centre plants.

·       Cordyline - pink passion, Torbay Red [brown leaved], Torbay dazzler[variegated]
 

Suitable side/companion plants

·       Small bushy plants – Hebe ( available in various colours : variegated, brown, green, Etc.), Choisya ( bright golden leaves), Euonymus fortune “Emerald n Gold” (variegated green & yellow leaves), Acuba ( spotted laurel )

·       Trailing plants – best are plants designed to give ground cover in normal gardening conditions : Lonicera nitidia Maygreen, Cotoneaster sal “Repens”, Juniperus squamata Blue ( low growing spreading silver/blue conifer)

 
 
       
Suitable Training plants

·       Ivy – available in green or  variegated ( with white or yellow)  

·       Vinca minor – again available  in green or  variegated ( with white or yellow)  

 
 
Suitable flowering bedding and filler plants

·       Pansies – either single colours or mixed

·       Violas -  usually multi-coloured but available as single coloured too

·       Heathers – (usually listed under Latin name Calluna) White or Pink normally, but also available painted in highly visible florescent colours, and as awful as that sounds can be used to great effect (if you pick the less gaudy colours!)

 



Now all you have to do is put them all together – easy!

1.       Fill your chosen container with your compost / slow release fertilizer mix to a little over ¾ full, leaving room for watering when filled with your plants

2.       Chose and put in your centre plant. Plant to depth it was in original pot and make sure you firm it in, so its secure

3.       Then place in two side/companion plants either side & firm them in( two plants either side or four for long window-boxes,  but circular Hanging-baskets or containers three or more look better.

4.       Then add any trailing plants (same configuration as side , one or two in window-boxes but three or five in round pots & containers look best)

5.       Then simply add your colourful bedding and heathers to fill in any spaces left. Water in well and leave in glasshouse or sheltered location to grow on before placing in their intended winter spot.

6.       You can vary your display , even when using same type container by using different plants or even by colour coding displays -  i.e. yellow flowers with variegated and light green plants or Blue / Silver conifers with white & blue flowered pansies/violas

Come on and get planting, you reap the benefits with wonderful winter colour till next summer if well cared for. Whatever you do decide, Happy Gardening!
 
 
 


Saturday, 7 September 2013

Gardening Jobs for September


 


Still looking ok, so frosts stay away !


It’s definitely getting a litter cooler and the days are already getting noticeably shorter but there’s still lots to do in the garden. Lots of flowering plants still need deadheading, and continue with the harvesting of fruit & vegetables from the garden.

The main jobs that we should be doing this September are:

·       Harvest – continue harvesting Potatoes,Onions,Apples, & Pears
 

·       Seed – collect seed from your favourite perennials and hardy annuals for sowing, to increase your collection or replace existing plants.


·       Cuttings – time now to take hardwood cuttings from fruit bushes and shrubs, again to increase or replace existing stock or for swops/gifts to other gardeners.
                                      http://www.blogger.com/blogger.gblogID=405696674831020941#editor/target=post;postID=8946504085183744397
 
 
 
·       Strawberry runners - you might still get to root a few runners if the warm weather keeps growth going, but if you already have taken some, you can think about planting up a new strawberry bed. 


·       Fruit – protect autumn fruit like Raspberry & Blackberry from the birds with protective netting if not already planted in a fruit cage.




·       Bulbs – time to think about spring colour! Bulbs can be planted not to avail of the last of the heat to provide a blast of colour in spring when we’ll have little else. If your flower beds are not ready to disturb or not sure where to plant them yet , pots and containers make sense - you can always put them in the ground later.
 
 


 
·       Divide plants – you can divide your herbaceous perennials now to again increase stock , but also some do get a bald spot in the middle if they become too large,   by dividing  them they’ll look better next year. Pay particular attention to perennials you have in pots, if they get pot bound they will struggle to preform. 
 
·       Sow – the following can be sown now: broad beans, hardy peas, spring cabbage, winter lettuces, spinach and garlic ( outside in mild areas or in pots to plant out later)
 
 
That's enough to keep us all busy this month - so Happy Gardening !

Wednesday, 28 August 2013

The Way Forward !



Sorry to say I have been sorely lacking in relation to my Blog over the last year but I’ve been mainly working on my own and another glasshouse move really put me to the pin of my collar just to keep everything on track.
 
But I’m back and have a few projects I hope will fill the pages over the next few months.

 

Garden restoration: literally Granny Gaule’s Garden! After restoring the family home a few years ago, now is the time to restore the gardens.
 
 
 
 
First up will be the front – where we are going to put in a cottage style garden but will no doubt take a few liberties … so any purists don’t take offence.
 
 
 
 
As you can see we have our work cut out after pruning trees earlier this year, it’s a mess at the moment.
 
Seasonal Garden Tasks & Planting hints: continuing on where we left off with our hints on what needs doing and planting now in the garden throughout the year.


Flowers & Foliage: An odd time I’ll give a small insight into what pays the bills! We grow, supply & maintain Window-boxes & Hanging-baskets for corporate clients –so we show what were up to throughout the year.





So stay tuned & Happy Gardening !

Tuesday, 8 January 2013

Gardening Jobs in January




Winter can be a wonderful time in the garden too, with frost glinting on seed heads and a near autumnal area of colours of reds, yellows and browns on stems, leaves and branches. It’s a great time to also plan ahead for the coming year by planting trees, take cuttings , making lists of seed required & plants to be acquired or even just move plants you think would be better suited elsewhere – all ideal jobs that can be tackled now, just as long as the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged.

Planting Jobs:

·       Sow Cabbage seed – Sowing cabbage seed now, for transplanting in late spring means we can be enjoying home grown cabbage as early as July. Varieties suited for January sowing under cover is – “Excel”, "Hispi" and “Advantage"

·       Onions – if growing from seed they need a long growing season and would benefit from sowing seed now indoors on a window-sill, ready for transplanting out in March.

·       Garlic - Garlic bulbs are easily available and all you have to do is break them up into the individual cloves. Peel off the outer skin carefully; it makes sure your cloves are free from any fungus that might cause problems later. Plant cloves root down , approx. 2" deep and about 6 " apart in an area that gets sun or only light shade . They like free draining soil so if your soil is heavy or clay consider using sand/grit under the plants to improve drainage. Another solution is to use a raised be to improve drainage from the soil. Garlic likes cold weather so don’t mind if the weather turns cold after planting

·       Edible Hedge – Why not try something different if planning a hedge? Elderberry, Gooseberry,Hazelnut,Green Damsons, Cherry Plums, Blackberry,Raspberry,Blueberry,Black/Redcurrants, and Roses all make great hedging but with the added benefit of producing edible fruits,nuts seeds and berries as well

·       Trees – perfect time to plant bare root trees (& shrubs) in the garden. Remember pot grown trees can be planted at any time of year.

Maintenance Jobs:

·       Digging –If not completed it would be a good time to finish digging over your plot and digging in any compost or manure you might have will, not only add to the amount of nourishment of the soil but, give our frosty weather the chance to kill off any weeds and bugs that might otherwise give us grief next year. If your soil is a heavy clay type, any compost/manure you add will also have the benefit of improving drainage - not too many plants like to have their roots sitting permanently in water.

·       Hardwood Cuttings – Check out our previous blog on how to take these cuttings.


·       Hotbed – instead of using electric warming cables to heat a hotbed why not try the cheaper old method of using fresh straw based manure. Various ways can be used but the two most common are variations on either the cold frame or the raised bed. Both use the same basic method of putting 2 ½ ft. of fresh straw based manure on the bottom of your bed and then covering it with about 6-9” of soil/compost in which you can grow seed etc. Heat is created by the metabolism of the microorganisms in the decomposing manure. Only difference between the two types of hotbed is the raised bed is uncovered and other “cold frame” version is covered – either by plastic cloche or by old window frame type structure to form a mini heated glasshouse.

·       Weeding – Chickweed in particular can grow all year round, so remove before it can take hold and set seed – increasing your problem.

·       Forcing Rhubarb – Rhubarb can be forced by placing an upturned bucket over the plant to exclude any light. Straw & manure can be put over the plant to encourage growth. The warmer the conditions the quicker the results.

·       Lawns – like with the kitchen garden/vegetable plot, keep of the lawn if waterlogged or covered with frost – you’ll do more damage than good. When dry keep removing leaves and tiding up the edging. 

·       Compost Heaps – Check out our previous blog on how to make the most of your compost




Lots of jobs for you in January, until the next time – Happy Gardening.

Monday, 31 December 2012

Green Tomato Chutney – Using your Harvest





There’s nothing quite like eating your own fruit & veg that you have grown and just picked from the garden, and an extension of that is to be able to substitute homemade jams & chutney for shop bought products.

With our crop of home grown tomatoes we made chutneys & relishes, soups & sauces as well as freezing some chopped to give us more scope on using them later. Towards the end of the season we did end up with quite a few green tomatoes which were slow to ripen so this recipe for Green Tomato Chutney came in quite handy...

Depending on how many jars you want or how many tomatoes you have, you can scale up the amounts accordingly to suit.

MAKES 1 x 500g jar.

400kg of green tomatoes

125g chopped Onions

100g of chopped / peeled / cored cooking Apples

40g Raisins

100g brown sugar

125ml white vinegar

5g fresh root ginger

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon mixed spice


1.       Dissolve the sugar with the vinegar in a large pan over gentle heat.

2.       Chop the tomatoes and add to the pan with all of the other ingredients

3.       Bring the contents to the boil and then simmer for about 1½ hrs. until its thick

4.       Ladle into sterilised jars and seal with airtight lid immediately. Make sure both lids and jars are sterilised by either heating them in oven / microwave or by using a solution such as Milton.

5.       Allow jars to cool before applying labels.

6.       For best results leave chutney to mature for about a month before using it, in a cool dark place. Will keep for a year unopened, but once you start to use it store in the fridge and use within   3-4 weeks.

Untill the next time - Happy Gardening & Good Cooking !

Thursday, 6 December 2012

Preserving & Using your Harvest


 

 

At this time of year we look back on our growing season and I presume you , like me, wouldn’t bother with all the work, wet days & cold days in  the garden unless there was a reward at the end of it – the Harvest , not in the traditional meaning but none the less a crop to use. So that’s what I thought I’d concentrate on here – ways to use & preserve our fruit & veg.

 

Tomatoes:

The biggest crop we had was the tomatoes which was not surprising really because we grew quite a few varieties in a number of different ways, mainly as trials. We were still producing them late into the season when salads had long since finished to get rid of them in any great numbers. Friends & neighbours were also beginning to duck when they saw me coming with baskets of my gifts! So we turned to preserving them or preparing them for other uses.

·       Freezing them - lots of recipes require a 400g tin of chopped tomatoes, not anymore! I’ve chopped and frozen red, yellow & mixed bags of around 500g to easily use in cooking over the next few months.

·       Soups – Slow roast tomato with chorizo chips, Tomato & roast fennel, and Tomato & roast pepper are a few we’ve tried. They freeze well too, so make a large batch and keep some for a quick meal later.

·       Chutney – Green Tomato Chutney was a life saver for using up those stubborn green tomatoes that just wouldn’t ripen, or the spicier Roasted Red Pepper & Tomato Chutney used up plenty of our red & yellow tomatoes too.

·       Sauces – with bolognese, curries and lasagne ever popular sauces are great at using up your tomatoes.

Recipes to follow for all of the above – watch this space.

Beans:

We had a good crop of both Broad beans and Runner beans. After using those all summer when in season I’ve turned to other means of using these crops.

·       Chutney – Runner Bean Chutney - great with curries!

·       Freezing – your own fresh frozen veg (you know what I mean!)

·       Seed – why not save seed from pods that have gone past their best for picking. Near the end of the season, I left pods ripen on the plant. Let them dry as long as you can, but just before they open and drop their seed. Use them next season to start again.

Fruit:

Hard to get to the stage of having too many strawberries but we did put some by for keeping. Apples too can be tricky to store – no bruised fruit, no touching and cool dry storage and your part of the way. We tried a few well use methods for our fruit and a new one to us

·       Freezing – Apples I sliced and placed in freezer bags, strawberries are best frozen on trays, well-spaced out and then bagged & stored. This way they are easier to separate and use a few, rather than having to defrost and use the entire bag.

·       Tarts – Apple Tarts freeze well too, so it’s an alternative to just freezing the fruit.

·       Hodgkin – Although I’ve heard of this, never tried it. My son Jonathan came up with the idea of using this to “preserve” fruit - the idea of the Alcohol never interested him. His way of selling us on the idea was we got two end products, fruit flavoured brandy and brandy flavoured fruit for Christmas Day!
 
 

Here’s our first recipe –

1.       Depending on the size of the jar you will need about 200g of each fruit. Wash everything well before adding to jar. Half or even quarter larger fruit to about Raspberry/cherry size. Hull and stone as appropriate. Fruit suitable includes: Strawberries, Raspberries, Cherries, Peaches, Apricots, Redcurrants, Blackberries, Plums, Apples (slice) & Pears.

2.       Make sure jar is sterilised – even when preserving in alcohol.

3.       Put in a layer of one of your chosen fruits, sprinkle with two tablespoons of white granulated sugar and then cover with brandy, doesn’t have to be the dear stuff!

4.       You don’t have to fill the jar in one go, just remember to seal lid well and place in  cool dark place until you put in another layer of fruit ,sugar & brandy.

5.       After last layer put in at least 2-3cm of brandy above fruit.

This is easy to do but slow to mature, you need to start in early summer when first fruits are ready and end in autumn when last fruits are used. I’m assured it will be ready for Christmas.

 

Hope your inspired enough to try some of our methods of saving & using our garden produce.

Until next time – Happy Gardening.